Slot Cars Rule !!!

Artin 1/43: Make your own track pieces for those 4-lane turns

So you want more than just 90 degree corners on your 4-lane 1/43 layout? Josh (JXR on the Home Racing World Forum) shows us how to get it done pretty easily …

Before we start let’s check the available turn pieces from Artin in 1/43:
Radius 1 turn (R1): 45 degrees (track piece 4002Q or equivalent)
Radius 2 turn (R2): 30 degrees (track piece 4902X or equivalent)
 
The R1 turn fits just inside of the R2 turn
 
With these track pieces you are limited to making 90 degree turns in 4 lanes configurations ….. That can be quite a limiter, especially if you want a road course type of layout.
 
If you want to deign a 1/43 track using Tracker 2000 (no longer supported) check this link for the track definition file, for Ultimate Racer 3.0, check this file.

Let’s start by taking a 45deg R1 curve and make it into a 30deg piece to match an R2 curve.
 
1 - Use an R2 curve to mark 30deg on the R1 piece. I found it easiest to attach straight track to each curve - then I align the seams of the straights and curves with a straight edge (ruler).
 
image001
 
 
2 - Once the seams are aligned hold the tracks firmly and place the ruler in line with the edge of the R2 and score the R1 with a razor knife. Keep the mark light on the outside edge areas.
 
image002
 
 
3 - This is what it should look like:
 
image003
 
 
4 - On the bottom of the R1 bend the rail tabs up. I use a small screwdriver.
 
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5 – See bent tabs on picture below
 
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6 - And remove the rails
 
image006
 
 
7 - Using another R1 - align it with the mark and score around the tabs.
 
image007
 
 
8 - Also mark the end of the flat part of the tab - not the point.
 
image008
 
 
9 - What it should look like so far:
 
image009
 
 
10 - Score the opposite tabs in the same way. I attach another R1 to rest the top piece on.
 
image010
 
 
11 - It should now look like this:
 
image011
 
 
12 - Cut the track. I use a dremel with a cutting wheel to rough-cut it - leaving a little plastic between the edge and the score line. If you wanted to have a 15deg R1 here - you would cut on the other side of the score.
 
image012
 
 
13 - Trim away the plastic up to the score lines. I use my razor knife here.
 
image013
 
 
14 - Don't forget to trim for the small tab on the bottom inside of the track for a good fit.
 
image014
 
 
15 - Test fit the track and trim away any snug spots
 
image015
 
 
16 - Put the rails back in. I line the rail tabs with the standard rail tab holes.
 
image016
 
 
17 - Fold the rail tabs back down. I use the screwdriver with a twisting motion to force the tabs open and then push them down firmly.
 
image017
 
 
18A - Mark the rails to be cut - in this case the inside slot rails will be cut flush to the track and the outside slot rails will be cut longer to shape them into male pin ends.
 
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18B - alternative - You can also line the pin ends up on both sides of the track - in this case the outside slot rail tabs won't line up with the rail tab holes. You'll need to cut the rail tabs off to get the rails seated in the grooves. To secure the rails in place I use hot glue in the rail tab holes. (This is also covered in steps 27 and 28.) I've used both methods with equal success.
 
 
image019
 
19 - continuing from 18A - What it should look like:
 
image020
 
 
20 - Skin the top of the rails to form the male pins. Again I use my dremel.
 
image021
 
 
21 - What they look like:
 
image022
 
 
22 - Fit it together.
 
image023
 
 
23 - And if everything looks and fits good - you're done! Mostly.
 
image024
 
 
24 - I like to hot glue the track together at the cut end - just a little to keep them from spreading apart.
 
image025
 
 
25 Voila - a 30 degree 4-lane turn:
 
image026
 
 
26 - This is the setup I use to cut an R2 into a 15deg corner - just align the ruler with the R1 and score the R2.
 
image027
 
 
27 - When making a small piece of track (like 15deg) - I cut (from the bottom) a hole in the rail groove and...
 
image028
 
28 - hot glue the rail.
 
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I also hot glue the rail when keeping all the male pins of the rails in step 18B  - since the tabs and holes don't line up. And you can also put a dab of super glue on the rail groove walls at the female rail ends to keep them from lifting.
 
 
You’re Done !!!!
 
 
 
A 30 degree corner from my track - standard R2 and a cut down R1:
 
image030
 
 
A 45 degree corner on the left - standard R1 and R2 with a cut 15deg R2
A 60 degree corner on the right - 2 standard R2s, standard R1 and a cut 15deg R1
 
image031
 

Good luck!